Chicago Chowdown: Wan Shi Da Bakery, Chinatown

Yep, I'm (figuratively) still in Chicago's Chinatown, doing due diligence on all the wonderful treats and tastes I discovered there, and today's post takes us to the delightful little Wan Shi Da Bakery on S. Wentworth Avenue.

If you read yesterday's post, you'll remember that my sister and I started off our visit with a delicious dim sum lunch at Shui Wah, so you might be forgiven for thinking that that was the end of our Chinatown chowdown. Of course, you'd be completely wrong - for the simple fact that no visit to Chinatown can possibly be considered complete without the purchase of at least one BBQ pork bun.

I've explained my fondness for pork buns in a previous post, so I'll just say that after chasing char siu bao through the streets of London's Chinatown and Chinatown NYC, I wasn't about to let them get away from me in Chicago.

So many pork buns!

If I'm honest, I spend more time thinking about these little golden pillows of sweet-and-savory, doughy perfection than I'd like to admit, so I was hardly going to pass up the opportunity to eat one...or several. In fact, for quality control purposes (of course!), my sister and I actually sampled offerings from two Chicago bakeries - the other being Chiu Quon, also on Wentworth Ave. - but determined that the pork-filled buns and other bakery treats at Wan Shi Da were most deserving of a review.

The Traditional

The bakery itself isn't anything to write home about, but the service is friendly and the treats - oh, the treats! In addition to the usual Chinese pastries, there's a large selection of fancy cakes, most of them brightly colored and covered with all sort of glazed fruits. We didn't try any of these. No, our attention was quite focused, as it should be, on the pork buns.

The Dry

Wan Shi Da is a great place to buy pork buns, not simply because they're plump, fresh, and delicious, or because they cost less than a dollar, but because they offer no less than three different kinds. You've got your traditional pork bun, your pork bun with sweet topping, and your dry pork bun (think very lightly shaved jerky-type meat on top and inside). Of course we had to try one of each.

The Sweet-Topped

The sweet topping reminds me of those almond cookies you sometimes get post-meal at Chinese restaurants, and while it couldn't woo me away from my favorite traditional pork buns, it's good for a change of pace. The dry pork bun was also an interesting and tasty alternative, but I still maintain that the original version, with its juicy filling, tender dough and ever-so-slightly-sweet glaze is the best of all.

In addition to our pork buns, we bought a few sweet pastries to carry home - my sister bought a sesame ball filled with red bean paste and an egg custard tart, while I tried a sponge cake and a custard-filled bun. Of these, I'd have to say that the sponge cake was my favorite - a pleasantly light and airy cake, reminiscent of Angel Food Cake in texture, but with a more substantial butter/egg flavor.

Sponge Cake

All of our selections were delightfully fresh and each one cost only pennies - I think I paid under $3 for four items (all carry-out items are 20% off, for an even sweeter deal!). I even bought a pork bun to take with me on my return trip to Tennessee the next day, and it was still fresh and delicious a day later, if a bit smashed from the journey. Overall, I'd heartily recommend a visit to Wan Shi Da. In addition to bakery items, there's a small cafe attached with 'real' food and on-site seating - and if there food is any bit as good as their baked goods, I think a return trip is in order!

Chicago Chowdown: Dim Sum Dining: Shui Wah, Chinatown

Plop me down in any major city and you can safely bet that I'll eventually wind up in Chinatown. I just can't resist the allure of those red-painted pagodas, the restaurants serving dainty and delicious dim sum, and shops selling everything from oolong to oysters, steak knives to steamers, and, of course, decorative vegetable cutters in every imaginable shape (because everyone needs a decorative vegetable cutter). I've eaten and shopped my way through Chinatowns in London and NYC - and now Chicago.

During my visit to NYC last summer, I filled up on dirt-cheap (and delicious) dumplings at the famous Vanessa's Dumpling House and spent some time in pursuit of the perfect pork bun. Since I'm a girl who knows what she likes, I set off to do exactly the same thing in Chicago.

My sister and I couldn't find a similarly cheap-and-cheerful eatery to match Vanessa's (but really, is there any place in the world to match their four-for-a-dollar dumplings?) so we ended up at a dim sum restaurant on Archer Avenue.

Now, Archer Ave is full of restaurants and dim sum eateries, so after about 20 minutes of deliberation, we followed our noses into a little place called Shui Wah. As luck would have it, this restaurant has developed a good following for its delicious and reasonably priced dim sum.

This restaurant is tiny, but that doesn't stop it from doing a brisk business. In fact, the place was so full during our visit that we ended up sharing our table with another group - a practice we commonly encountered in Europe but have rarely seen in the US. Close quarters might also be responsible for another of Shui Wah's unusual traits: there are no carts at this dim sum eatery - instead you order on paper, as you would sushi or tapas, and the food is brought out individually. This process takes a little longer than the usual a la carte service, but it does mean that the food is piping hot when it arrives and there's no waiting for your favorite dish to make the rounds.

Clockwise from top left: chive cake, taro cake, shrimp dumpling

Between the two of us, my sister and I ordered steamed shrimp dumplings, chive cakes, fried taro cakes and steamed pork buns. The shrimp dumplings were wonderfully flavorful, if a little too soft, and the taro cake was a pleasant surprise, being both salty and sweet, soft and crispy. Of course, the highlight of the meal was the steamed pork buns - some of the best I've ever had, and I've eaten many. Even my baby nephew tried a bit for his first-ever taste of dim sum!

The delicious steamed pork bun

The atmosphere of the restaurant is a little harried (you'll have to be assertive about flagging down servers during the lunchtime rush) and, for dim sum neophytes, possibly a bit intimidating, but the food is good and the prices are very reasonable.

A few tips: don't be afraid to ask if you're unsure about any of the dishes - our helpful server even pointed out items on others' plates - and if you're really lost, ask for recommendations. The steamed pork buns are a known classic and we saw lots of delicious-looking orders of 'fried dough' and pork shumai. Additionally, the jasmine tea was a warm treat on an unseasonably chilly day - the perfect thing to fortify us for the walk back to the conveniently nearby Metra station. All in all, a Chinatown success!

Note: A message on Yelp states that the restaurant will be closing on August 1st. If true, it's a shame - but that still gives you a few months to get your fill of delicious dim sum!

Chicago Chowdown: Hot Dogs = Serious Business

My sister and I spied this amusing sign during our visit to Millennium Park - incontrovertible proof that Chicagoans take their hot dogs very, very seriously. For more proof, check out this post about a great little place called Portillo's.

Avocado 'Mayonnaise' (or Egg-Free, Vegan Mayonnaise) - the perfect condiment for Memorial Day cookouts!

Matt and I are now firmly entering into the preparation stages for our upcoming move. It's exciting (our first time in a real place - with spare rooms, stairs, and a real lawn!) and a little stressful (we'll be packing and moving everything ourselves) but let's be honest, it hasn't really left me a lot of time for blogging.

Thank goodness, then, that today's recipe is ultra-short and super-simple. In fact, it only has two ingredients, but don't let that fool you, it's big on taste and a perfect accompaniment to all those juicy burgers - of the beef, veggie, or portobello variety - that you'll be grilling for Memorial Day this weekend!

Avocado 'mayonnaise' may sound a little unusual, but it's a great, natural alternative to the regular kind - filled with healthier fats and also perfectly appropriate for vegans. The flavor is surprisingly similar - especially when spread on burgers or in sandwiches. It's also great with Mexican food, and if you're a bit skeptical, you can think of it like extra smooth and creamy guacamole!

I happened upon this tasty condiment when I was preparing some super-ripe avocados for freezing - you'll notice that the preparation method is almost identical, which also means that you can make a big batch and freeze the leftovers without any issues (they'll keep in the fridge for a couple of days, but anything beyond that and I recommend freezing).

Whether you're not a fan of regular mayonnaise, just sick of buying it, or want to try out a new use for avocados, give this 'mayonnaise' a try - you won't be disappointed.

Easy Avocado Mayonnaise

Ripe avocado, seed and skin removed
Lime or Lemon juice (1 Tablespoon per avocado)
Salt, to taste

In a blender (I use my mock Magic Bullet) blend avocado flesh until smooth and creamy. Add 1 Tablespoon of lime or lemon juice (lime is recommended) for each avocado blended. Blend again until mixture is light and smooth - it should be somewhat frothy. Add salt to taste. Keep refrigerated until ready to use. Enjoy as you would regular mayonnaise - on sandwiches or burgers, or as a condiment for mexican food, pasta, or baked potatoes. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or frozen for up to 3 months.

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The Bohemian Crystal, Westmont, IL

Deep dish pizza may top most people's list of Chicago must-eats, but when my family visits Chicago, there's only one place we have to go - The Bohemian Crystal in Westmont. Back in the early days of The Traveling Spoon, I dedicated a post to exploring my culinary heritage, and The Bohemian Crystal was an important landmark on the journey.

Legendary Breaded Pork Tenderloin and Bread Dumplings at the Bohemian Crystal, Westmont, IL

To make a long story a bit shorter, I trace my culinary roots to the Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Germany, so the Bohemian Crystal - which specializes in Bohemian, Slovak and Moravian cuisine (with a few classic German and Polish entrees thrown in for good measure) - is the perfect place to sate my ethnic food cravings. But this restaurant isn't just a mecca for my extended family, it's also a favorite of the sizable Czech population that makes its home in the Chicago suburbs.

Main Dining Room at the Bohemian Crystal

My family has been going to 'the Crystal,' for as long as I can remember - quite possibly, in fact, since before I was born, and I'm quite sure the decor hasn't changed a bit since those early days. Stepping into the Crystal really is like stepping back in time: leather-backed chairs, low, heavy-beamed ceilings, and brick interior accents speak to its 1960s-70s heyday, as does the superannuated clientele. On any given visit, my siblings and I are usually the youngest patrons by a few decades at least, but this is actually a positive because it means that the Crystal really understands good, stick-to-your ribs food, with generous portions that represent a value for money reflective of a bygone era. Simply put, it's good, old-fashioned food and a lot of it!

Start 'em young: my nephew, James' first visit to the Crystal

The Crystal is modeled on a traditional, Old World Czech restaurant, which means it's dark, dated, and decorated with masses of tchotzkes - including, of course, its namesake Bohemian crystal. Add to that the traditional dress of the young, female waitresses and you could be forgiven for imagining yourself in a pub in Prague.

So now that I've set the scene, what about the food? Well, since I've been to the Crystal so many times, you think I'd be able to give you a detailed run-down of the menu....and as a champion of variety, I'm a little embarrassed to admit that I've only ever ordered one thing off their ridiculously extensive menu (seriously, you might want to do an online recon to nail down a few options beforehand, or you'll be reading for a while). That's right - I've ordered the same meal every time I've visited the Crystal, but when your meal is as good and authentic as their Breaded Pork Tenderloin, why mess with perfection?

See? Perfection.

The Crystal is known for hearty favorites like duck, lamb shank, pork tenderloin, or veal cutlets, but it also boasts an extensive list of sides, including potato pancakes, both bread- and potato-based dumplings, veggies, and sauerkraut - all of which can be topped with the thick brown gravy that they serve in abundance. Each entree includes a choice of sides and is served with a choice of soup or salad and some rye bread and rolls. You also get a bottomless mug of coffee or tea and a choice of dessert to finish.

Liver Dumpling Soup with Rye bread

The breaded tenderloin is massive and crisp (ask for a lunch portion or half portion if you're intimidated), but lightly breaded and usually not too greasy. Taken alongside some pillowy bread dumplings - my favorite part of the meal - and a river of molten gravy, it's a richly satisfying culinary trip to the 'old country.' I usually preface mine with a slice of caraway-infused rye bread and a bowl of liver dumpling soup, popular for its clear broth and tender, lightly spiced dumplings.

Poppyseed Kolacky

For dessert, I always choose kolacky, but kolacky-lovers should be warned that it's sometimes a bit hit-or-miss with the quality of the pastries at the Crystal. They're sourced from different bakeries and suppliers in the area (I always imagine some little babushka churning out hundreds of pastries in her kitchen!) which means that they're often slightly different from visit to visit. Thankfully, we were in luck this past time and feasted on some of the fattest, juiciest poppyseed kolacky I've ever seen!

Fruit Kolacky

Sure it's a nostalgic eatery for me - just the smell of the Crystal's over-strong coffee is enough to bring back memories of childhood visits with my grandparents and extended family - but it's also a great choice for anyone who values good, rich food and good value. Of course, you can't keep such a great place secret, so if you find yourself craving old world favorites you might want to make a reservation - the Crystal is especially packed on Sunday afternoons and is closed on Mondays.

Summer's Best Strawberry Sour Cream Cake

As you can imagine, I didn't get the chance to do much baking during my recent travels, but I did whip up a few tasty treats for the trip - like this fresh, summery, Strawberry Sour Cream Cake. With it's rich sour cream batter studded with ruby-ripe strawberries, and covered in a crackly, baked-sugar topping, this cake is a summertime stunner - and a perfect choice for a Mother's Day brunch.

I've always been a fan of sour cream cakes. They're so moist, and usually a little healthier than all-butter versions. They're also incredibly simple to make and usually travel well - two characteristics that make them ideal for road trips or potlucks. This version can be made with any berry (you may notice that the original, from Gourmet, included blueberries and buttermilk!) but it's especially perfect for showcasing those early summer strawberries (you can actually cut the sugar a bit if you use strawberries - other berries may require the full amount).

In my opinion, one of the best features of this cake is the lovely, crackly sugar 'crust' that forms during baking. It provides a great contrast to the softness interior and the juiciness of the strawberries. If you're planning on making this cake well ahead of time, I recommend popping it in the oven for a few minutes before serving to crisp up the top again. Then you can just eat it as-is, allow it to cool, or drench the whole thing in pouring cream (can you guess which one I'd do?). Of course, with a cake this summery and simple, you can hardly go wrong!

Giordano's: Chicago's Famous Stuffed Pizza

This is quite possibly one of the most long-awaited posts ever to appear on The Traveling Spoon, but for fans of deep dish and enormously cheesy pizzas, it's worth the wait. The pies served up at Giordano's are, without exception, the most gooey, cheesy, saucy, hefty and, well, simply enormous pizzas I've ever seen. I offer this as evidence:

That mass of crust, sauce and molten cheese may have just blown your pizza-loving mind, but before I launch into my review, I have something very important to disclose: I'm not a deep dish pizza girl. I know it's a disgrace to my largely Chicago-based extended family, but I'll take a thin crust over a deep dish any day - and don't even get me started on stuffed pizzas! I love the crispness of a Neapolitan pie, and the bendy, trendy flexibility of a New York slice. I love the little bubbles that erupt from the wafer-thin crusts of wood fired pizza, and think that dough should be more than just a vehicle for sauce, veggies, and meat.

With all that in mind, you're probably wondering why I ever set foot in Giordano's, right? Well, apart from a serious case of 'When in Chicago...,' sometimes even the most devoted thin-crust lover just needs a bit more. And where better to get it than at Chicago's premier stuffed pizza eatery, Giordano's.

Although the restaurant offers other classic staples of Italian fare, the pizza is definitely the main attraction. Unlike some of the other Chicago deep dish hotspots (I won't go into the rivalries here!), Giordano's specializes in stuffed pizza - not stuffed crust, stuffed pizza.

Essentially, each pizza is a layer of buttery crust, suitably weighed down with the toppings of your choice, smothered with masses of molten cheese, topped with another layer of buttery crust and slathered with tangy-and-sweet tomato sauce. With this method, you can easily see why these bad boys are called pies!

Anatomy of a Slice

The Varsity (The World's Largest Drive-In), Atlanta, GA

I'm sorry I've been a bit MIA lately, but I promise I have a good excuse. You see, while everyone else was unpacking their Easter baskets, Matt and I were making our way to Atlanta, to the world's largest drive-in fast food restaurant, The Varsity.

While others were gorging themselves on chocolate bunnies and sharing marshmallow Peeps with family, Matt and I were noshing on juicy burgers, crispy onion rings, and The Varsity's signature chili dogs. Okay, so our real business in Georgia involved visiting family, too, but our trip to The Varsity was a nice perk!

The Varsity looms large in Atlanta lore, and also in the fast food world (it even has its own extensive Wikipedia article - which is naturally the pinnacle of culinary achievement), but I have to admit that Matt and I approached the place with a somewhat critical eye. When it comes to fatty, greasy, fast food goodness, Matt's allegiance belongs securely to The Beacon Drive-In, in Spartanburg, South Carolina. So as the dutiful wife, I promised to be scrupulous and stringent in my evaluation of The Varsity - which makes it even more impressive that the place gets my thumbs-up seal of approval.

Like The Beacon, The Varsity has a storied past. Although it has moved and expanded several times since - there are now several satellite locations in the Atlanta area - the original Varsity was established back in 1928. At that time, it was called 'The Yellow Jacket,' but booming business and expanding clientele earned the place its current location and its current, more inclusive name (for more info, you can check out the snazzy interactive timeline on their website).

Source

The Varsity is famous for its chili dogs and Frosted Orange drinks, but like The Beacon, it also has its own deeply-ingrained and much-loved culture. While signs at The Beacon urge you to' 'Call it,' The Varsity's ordering catchphrase is 'What'll ya have?" There's also an unofficial menu - in which a 'Walk a Dog' is a hot dog to-go, a 'Bag of Rags' gets you potato chips, and a 'Squirt One' is the famous Varsity Orange soft drink.

Source

The Varsity boasts a lot of fast food choices - mostly variations of burgers and dogs - but Matt and I kept it classic, with a pair of chili dogs and a cheeseburger, respectively. Of course, we just couldn't resist adding an order of onion rings on the side (that's 'sideways' in Varsity lingo).

We'd arrived some time after lunchtime, but the place was still packed - hardly surprising for a Friday afternoon on a holiday weekend. Nevertheless, the service was swift and before we knew it, we had our food in hand. Matt found us a table in the elevated dining room overlooking the drive-in and the parking deck, or 'Lunching Pad' (an amusing nod to John Glenn's space flight). This proved to be the perfect spot, giving us an entertaining view of all the non-stop hustle and bustle below.

Of course, we weren't really there for the view or to be entertained - we'd come for the food, and we weren't disappointed. The onion rings were pretty amazing: thick with juicy strips of onion, and breading that was suitably greasy but not too overpowering (I like my fast food to feel indulgent, not endangering!). With a bit of ketchup, they were pretty close to fried perfection. Matt seemed more than pleased with his chili dogs and my burger really hit the spot. It wasn't huge or fancy, just a good, solid burger - and that's not something I get to say very often.

So how does The Varsity stack up against Matt's cherished Beacon? Well, for being so outwardly similar, they're actually quite different. Where The Beacon serves up heaping plates of fresh-from-the-fryer fare, The Varsity's offerings are a bit simpler - dressed down burgers and dogs with simple sides. The food is a little less greasy (which is usually good) but also a lot less filling (which is usually bad). If Matt and I weren't headed for dinner at his sister's we'd have had to order seconds. Thankfully, their menu is pretty inexpensive so if you're really hungry, a second burger won't break the bank.

With dinner in mind, Matt and I decided to forgo dessert, but The Varsity also caters to the sweet tooth, offering their famous 'fried pies,' brownies and ice cream, as well as frosted beverages. Their Frosted Orange looked especially thirst-quenchingly delicious - I guess we'll just have to order one next time!

Easter Brunch: Breakfast Sausage Casserole

When it comes to brunch, this recipe is it for me. I've come across dozens of breakfast casseroles, but none that make me as bright and sunshiny as this one. Our version has been in the family for as long as I can remember - longer, even - and it's marked almost every important family occasion.

Breakfast sausage casserole was the popular choice for childhood breakfasts-in-bed, and it still turns up every Christmas morning. I've carried it to countless potlucks and even ate a small piece on the morning of my wedding! It's also a feature of Easter brunch, not least because it can be prepared and refrigerated ahead of time (this actually improves the flavor) and then just popped straight into the oven for a no-fuss family breakfast.

A wonderful marriage of bread, egg, sausage and cheese, this is real stick to your ribs food. As with most family recipes, I tend to just throw this meal together with little regard for measurements. I also tend to make it a little differently each time - which is why you'll see ranges of some of the ingredients below. In each case, I recommend that you cater to your own tastes - you can adjust the amounts sausage, worcestershire sauce and cheese without materially changing the recipe. In fact, I've shared a more authentic, 'family' version of our recipe, but I typically use a bit less cheese and sausage when making it for just Matt and me. Regardless of whether you're feeding two or two dozen this Easter, this endlessly adaptable casserole is sure to please.

Hot Cross Buns (the real English way!)

There are some things that are just quintessentially Easter. Of course, you've got your chocolate bunnies and a plethora of egg-shaped treats, but for me the holiday isn't complete without an Easter Lamb Cake (a German/Eastern European tradition) or a batch of hot cross buns.

I suppose that's because these treats emphasize the Christian aspect of the holiday (although it's been hotly debated that they have their pagan roots, too) while still allowing me to get my hands dirty in the kitchen and fill my belly with delicious foods.

Hot cross buns hold another special place in my heart - right up there with bangers-and-mash, Cadbury's chocolate, and golden syrup-rich flapjacks - in my treasured food memories of childhood in England. Each spring, I'd look forward to the appearance of the soft, spiced, currant-studded buns, and spend the few weeks of their short season trying to enjoy as many of them as possible.

These days, the buns are sold practically year round, but they weren't always so ubiquitous. In fact, these doughy delights were actually banned by Oliver Cromwell during the Protectorate, when their religious/Catholic associations were considered a threat. I guess that brings a whole new meaning to the phrase 'dangerously good' (and I'll bet you didn't know you'd get a history lesson today)!

In all seriousness, though, the hot cross bun does have a fascinating history (you can read about it in greater detail here), and is surrounded by a whole host of interesting legends (you can read about them in greater detail here). Traditionally, the buns are prepared and eaten on Good Friday, as a celebration of the end of the Lenten season (i.e. "yay we can eat butter and sugar again - lets have some sticky-sweet buns to celebrate") and in preparation for the celebration of Easter (hence the cross). It's said that buns prepared and eaten on Good Friday will never mold, and that such buns, if kept, have all sorts of powers in the home. I'm not sure I'm willing to put these tales to the test, but I am willing to go out on a limb and say that you absolutely must make these buns this Easter.

I haven't been this pleased with a recipe in quite a while - to the extent that I didn't make even a single alteration. Of course, that's also because I spent hours (and I mean hours) searching for the perfect recipe beforehand. There seems to have been a surge in popularity of these treats Stateside in recent years, and while I'm sure that's a good thing, I wanted a version that would replicate, as exactly as possible, the hot cross buns of my British youth.

I pored over dozens of recipes before rejecting them on some grounds or other. Some had no currants, some had no sugar (everyone knows that hot cross buns are sweet, Nigella), and some were just tarted up cinnamon rolls (I'm looking at you, Pioneer Woman).

Let me just clear this up before we proceed: real hot cross buns don't have icing crosses. Ever. I'm not usually one to object to icing, but somehow it seems to go against the wholesome, traditional, and somewhat ascetic nature of these 'treats'. The real method is to use a paste of flour and water, with maybe a bit of sugar added in. That's all. Got it? (Sorry to be so dogmatic, but you don't mess with my hot cross buns - you just don't!).

Proper flour crosses before being baked into goldeny goodness

As you can see, I have high standards when it comes to hot cross buns. The more recipes I perused, the more I despaired of ever finding The One (apparently, I'm not the only one who's had this dilemma) - and then, suddenly, there it was. The perfect recipe for hot cross buns comes courtesy of a Sydney-based food blog called Citrus and Candy. The recipe is given in metric/by weight measurements, which is good news for authenticity and deliciousness, but bad news for the average American cook. I certainly hope you can find a scale and follow along - otherwise, here's a decent-looking recipe in imperial measurements (but be warned: I can't vouch for it's authenticity or deliciousness!).

If you're still reading, I'll assume you've decided to try the metric recipe. Congratulations, your world-of-hot-cross-buns is about to be rocked! This recipe turns out a dozen of the most perfectly spiced, perfectly moist buns, each of them generously studded with soft raisins and topped with a thin, perfectly shaped flour cross.

For those of you inexperienced in baking bread at home, this recipe also serves as a great initiation. There were several points at which I thought things might go wrong (my dough was very moist at first, my cross paste was a little thin, and I had to substitute strawberry-rhubarb jam for the more traditional apricot glaze), but yet the buns turned out absolutely perfect. Perhaps the rumors of divine protection are true, or perhaps it's just a really good recipe. Either way, I hope I've convinced you that you absolutely must make them: these buns really are dangerously good!